In September South Tyrol's trails empty out, the air is clearer and the mountain huts are still open. Here is why it is my favourite month, what changes compared with summer and how to plan the day.
If I had to pick just one month for walking in South Tyrol, I would pick September: low light, clean air, mountain huts still open and far fewer people than in August. It is the month when summer's advantages remain and almost all of its drawbacks disappear.
Something does change in the planning, though: the days are shorter, mornings at altitude are cooler and, towards the end of the month, the weather starts to look like autumn. Below is what to keep in mind to make the most of it.
What makes September different from August
Fewer crowds on the best-known trails
Once the summer holidays end, the car parks at the classic trailheads breathe again and the paths empty out, especially on weekdays. Routes that in August are best tackled at dawn to avoid the queues can be done at a calmer pace, without the feeling of walking in single file.
The light and the air
The lower sun draws the Dolomite walls more sharply and lengthens the shadows across the meadows, and on clear days visibility at altitude is often better than in high summer. For anyone walking with a camera it is the most generous month of the year.
Heat is no longer a problem
On the valley floor you can walk comfortably even in the middle of the day, and on sun-exposed slopes there is no longer any need to chase the shade. The opposite holds for the early hours: mornings at altitude can be cold, and a warm layer in the rucksack stops being optional.
What changes in planning the day
- Shorter days. Darkness comes earlier than in summer: a long hike should still start early, to leave a margin for the return.
- Cool mornings, mild afternoons. A dawn start is no longer forced by the heat, but it is still useful for the light and the timing.
- Fewer storms, more changeable weather at month's end. Early-afternoon heat storms become rarer; on the other hand, towards the end of September the first autumn fronts can reach the high ground and, above 2,000 metres, the odd dusting of snow.
- Hut and alm opening times. Many stay open all month, but hours may shorten and some close as the season ends. It is always worth checking before you set off.
September compared with August and October
| August | September | October | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Crowds | The highest of the year | Much lower, especially on weekdays | Low |
| Temperatures | Hot on the valley floor | Mild by day, cool in the morning at altitude | Cool, cold in the morning |
| Alms and huts | All open | Generally still open | Many alms close around mid-month |
| Light | Flat in the middle of the day | Low and raking | Low, with the larches turning gold |
| Watch out for | Afternoon storms | Shorter days | First snow up high and closures |
Where to walk in September
September is the month when I recommend exactly the routes I advise against in August because of the crowds. The guide to the trails of Val di Funes gives distances, height gain and timings for the four routes I suggest most often, and in this month they all work well.
The Odle trail in particular takes on a different look: the north face catches a softer light and it is easier to find a seat at the Geisler Alm, although booking is still a good idea. If you would like to do it with a guide, here is the page for the guided hike on the Adolf Munkel Weg in Val di Funes.
For routes that climb above 2,000 metres, such as the one from the Zanser Alm to the Genova Hut, remember that the season for high-altitude huts generally closes in early October: September is the last comfortable window to do them with the hut open.
What to pack in September
- A proper warm layer, not just a light top: in the morning and in the shade at altitude you will feel the cold.
- A windproof and waterproof shell, always, even with a good forecast.
- A light hat and gloves for higher routes, especially late in the month.
- A head torch: with shorter days it is extra security if the return takes longer.
- Sun protection: the sun is lower, but at altitude it still burns.
- Water: a little less than in August, but never too little.
This is the month when group outings are most rewarding: quiet trails, an unhurried pace and time to stop and look. You will find the routes I offer among the guided day hikes in South Tyrol.
Two typical September mistakes
- Dressing as if it were August. The day can be warm on the valley floor and cold at a high trailhead: anyone who sets off in a T-shirt without a warm layer will notice at the first stop.
- Planning the return on summer timings. A hike that ended in full daylight in July can end at dusk in late September. Before setting off, check the route's real timings and the sunset time, not just the forecast.
Frequently asked questions
Is September a good month for hiking in South Tyrol?
Yes, for many it is the best: fewer crowds than in summer, milder temperatures, low light and huts generally still open. Days are shorter, though, so it is worth starting early even without the heat.
Are the mountain huts open in September?
Generally yes, many stay open all month. Opening hours and closing dates vary from one to another, however, and some close at the end of September: better to check before planning your day around a stop.
What is the weather like in the South Tyrol mountains in September?
Usually mild by day and cool in the morning, with afternoon storms less frequent than in summer. Towards the end of the month the first autumn fronts can reach the high ground, with occasional snow above 2,000 metres.
September or October?
September if you want huts open and longer days; October if you are after the colours of the larches and accept short days, cold mornings and many alms closed from mid-month.
For a comparison with the busiest month, there is the article on hiking in South Tyrol in August amid crowds and heat.
And if you would rather not think about timings and routes, let's plan a guided hike in South Tyrol together, built around your group.